I ride a wave quite like this in that if you know it you can get a great surf without too many people. Love Mason Ho’s agility in such a small confined space.
I ride a wave quite like this in that if you know it you can get a great surf without too many people. Love Mason Ho’s agility in such a small confined space.
What happens to you when it’s been flat for weeks? If you’re like me, the answer is probably something like fade into a smaller and smaller space inside your mind until everything you do feels like a prison, and your only thought is, “I’d rather be surfing.” Sound about right? Now imagine you’ve been living […]
