There’s a break near me that runs for so long that my legs begin to burn, but I don’t think it would break as long as this wave. Courtesy of Stu Gibson.
There’s a break near me that runs for so long that my legs begin to burn, but I don’t think it would break as long as this wave. Courtesy of Stu Gibson.
What happens to you when it’s been flat for weeks? If you’re like me, the answer is probably something like fade into a smaller and smaller space inside your mind until everything you do feels like a prison, and your only thought is, “I’d rather be surfing.” Sound about right? Now imagine you’ve been living […]
