The first real wave in this clip starts at 00:45 seconds and it’s literally the perfect beachie. From there on out the size just continues to build. There’s some 1st person gopro footage of him on some bombs too.
The first real wave in this clip starts at 00:45 seconds and it’s literally the perfect beachie. From there on out the size just continues to build. There’s some 1st person gopro footage of him on some bombs too.
What happens to you when it’s been flat for weeks? If you’re like me, the answer is probably something like fade into a smaller and smaller space inside your mind until everything you do feels like a prison, and your only thought is, “I’d rather be surfing.” Sound about right? Now imagine you’ve been living […]
