Matahi Drollet’s Teahupoo Monster

Matahi Drollet’s Teahupoo Monster

Matahi Drollet took on this monster at Teahupoo in September of 2015.  It’s pretty likely that you’ll see this young man in the new Point Break movie.

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Finding Peace a Thousand Leagues From The Sea

Finding Peace a Thousand Leagues From The Sea

What happens to you when it’s been flat for weeks? If you’re like me, the answer is probably something like fade into a smaller and smaller space inside your mind until everything you do feels like a prison, and your only thought is, “I’d rather be surfing.” Sound about right? Now imagine you’ve been living […]

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