
At only 17 years old Matahi Drollet has more experience than most pro surfers at Teahupo’o. It’s probably the world’s most dangerous wave and it’s his local.
At only 17 years old Matahi Drollet has more experience than most pro surfers at Teahupo’o. It’s probably the world’s most dangerous wave and it’s his local.
What happens to you when it’s been flat for weeks? If you’re like me, the answer is probably something like fade into a smaller and smaller space inside your mind until everything you do feels like a prison, and your only thought is, “I’d rather be surfing.” Sound about right? Now imagine you’ve been living […]